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Posts Tagged ‘gardens’

As much as we love St Augustine, as the temperatures started to drop, we knew it was time to go.  It took us three days to motor from St Augustine to Vero Beach, thanks in part  to some favorable currents, at which point we decided it was warm enough to pause for a few days… which turned into nearly three weeks.  Yep, that’s how we roll.

We arrived a week ahead of Christmas and decided to stick around for the holiday potluck.  It was our first Christmas dinner served buffet style in a laundry room, no joke. Washers (mains and sides) on one side, dryers (apps and desserts) on the other.  Unlike our Thanksgiving potluck of the previous month, the weather was quite cooperative and a good time was had by all.

KL 26047037_1996776693672230_1738670633594429960_nA few days later, some former co-workers of Mike’s came to visit, and unfortunately brought some cooler weather with them.  Nevertheless, we managed to show them some of our favorite Vero spots.  The Indian River Citrus Museum never disappoints… solid Florida kitsch and some interesting history of the Florida citrus industry.

Of course a return visit to McKee Botanical Garden was in order.  They were gearing up for a lighted holiday event later in the evening which we didn’t stick around for, but a special exhibit entitled “It’s a Jungle Out There” featuring the sculptures of a collection of artists in Nairobi, Kenya was particularly captivating.  I quote from their brochure…

“Using reclaimed materials discarded from the car industry and other sources, a group of 19 African artists, ranging in age from 22 to 42 years old, created this collection for McKee.  Head artist Moses Ochieng is committed to training young artists and giving them a lifelong creative skill.  The artists are recruited from disadvantaged, impoverished backgrounds, providing them with employment and apprenticeships to empower them to be self-sustaining, productive members of their communities.  As paid apprentices, these young artists are taught valuable skills such as design, metal cutting, welding, painting and molding.  Most of the artists come from the Luo community and are known for their metal works, while a few are from the Kamba community known for their carving skills.”

I’d (mistakenly) opted not to bring my good camera, so the following  (numerous) shots are taken with my i-phone.

Elsewhere in the garden, we found mistletoe and pink flamingos in their holiday finery.

LS_20171229_144525 Orchard Island Brewery, Vero Beach FLAfter wandering the garden, we took a break beachside at Orchid Island Brewery which was much better than Mike and I recalled from a previous scouting visit… where we enjoyed some tasty bites and drinkable beers.  Later we headed back into town (taking advantage of friends with cars) for dinner at the ever so trendy Southern Social which was as good as we remembered it being from a previous visit.

While we’d hoped to visit the beachside Farmers Market the following morning, the weather was definitely not cooperative.  It was perfect however for a wander through the always impressive Vero Beach Museum of Art.  Not by accident, we caught the final day of a special exhibition, a Maurice Sendak Memorial Exhibition which was quite nice and very kid-friendly, even for grown-up kids.

I was captivated by another piece in the museum’s permanent collection that I’d somehow missed (or perhaps not adequately appreciated) at our previous visits, composed completely from wooden chopsticks and plastic forks.  The artist is Columbian, Federico Uribe, and this piece is titled Oriente-Poniente, which translates “east-west”.

The blue skies cooperated for yet another photo of a perennial favorite in the sculpture garden, a piece titled “Yorkshire Soul 3” by Spanish sculptor, Jaume Plensa.

LS_20171230_121659 Yorkshire Soul III, Jaume Plensa, artist

We spent a good part of the afternoon checking out a new-to-us spot called The Crab Stop which was quite yummy, followed by a bit more visiting back aboard our Cheshire.

LS_20171230_135617 garlic crabs, Crab Stop

Visitors gone, Mike and I tucked in for a quiet New Years Eve which involved dinner, a shared bottle of Prosecco and an early bedtime.  It was a far cry from the NYE parties we hosted in our previous life, but it suits our current lifestyle quite nicely.

And then there was weather…

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We were in St Augustine when we learned that several of our dirt-dwelling friends from Ohio would be visiting the central Florida area this winter.  As we had no other definite plans, we decided a return visit to Vero Beach was in order.  This would be our third visit to Vero, and as it turned out, also our longest.

One weekend we rented a car and headed inland to catch up with some friends Bob & Donna and Dave & Teresa who were camping in Kissimmee State Park.  We enjoyed some hikes, some shared meals, and comparing notes on living in our respective small spaces, their tow-behind campers vs our Cheshire.  32143751324_55a5583d30_o

Meanwhile back in Vero, we were once again successful in clearing out the guest cabin to accommodate overnight guests aboard.  Mark & Pam were in the area for a short stretch.  It seems they always visit when we’re on a mooring ball/away from the dock, so they had the full dinghy back-and-forth experience to boot.  They were the first brave souls, not counting Mike himself, to test out the newly fashioned sling seat that hangs off our transom.  Depending on the time of day, our ginormous solar panels even offer a bit of shade.

We made a drive down to Ft Pierce to check out the Navy SEAL Museum which was well worth the trip.  The boys especially enjoyed the training “playground”.

Interestingly it was on the nearby beaches that those who preceded the SEALs would train for  their assault on the beaches of Normandy and Southern France in Europe and numerous islands throughout the Pacific.  We found it to be a much more peaceful place today; the terns seemed to agree.

Back in Vero Beach, we made a return visit (1st for Mark & Pam) to McKee Botanical Garden.  In addition to the usual plants and sculptures, they had a couple of special exhibitions.  The “Nature Connects: Art with Lego Bricks” exhibit was something we had seen before at a garden in Naples FL a few years back.  It’s almost impossible to appreciate these pieces via photos, but I’ve included a few below anyway.  Patrick Dougherty’s Stickwork was also a familiar sight, as I’d watch him construct a few of these pieces on the grounds at the Franklin Park Conservatory in Columbus OH a number of years ago.  The link above is to the Garden’s write up on the exhibit, and includes some additional photos and an interesting description of the process.

 

Former cruising friends/currently CLODs (Cruisers Living On Dirt) Stew & Diana drove up from Stuart for a visit one day, and we were pleased to find a few other cruising friends wintering in Vero Beach as well.  The weekly Thursday Happy Hour gathering continues and was good for meeting some new folk.  On a couple of Mondays we joined the group that frequents Mr Manatee’s for $5 Burger night.  Mike bravely tackled the Colossal Woodrow Burger (a double stacked (a full pound)/pork roll/bacon egg/onion rings/mozzarella sticks) challenge,,, eat the whole thing, including the fries, and get a free t-shirt.  One guy in the group does the challenge weekly;  apparently everyone he knows now has a t-shirt.

The remainder of our time was spent revisiting familiar places… the Vero Beach Museum of Art never disappoints.  Larry Kagan’s Object/Shadow exhibit was amazing.  (See Che Guevara image below and check out the link above for more info.)  Deborah Butterfield’s Horses were also breathtaking.  We were frequent visitors to the Saturday Farmers’ Market Oceanside, often walking over early for coffee and a bite of breakfast on the beach before doing our shopping.  We also dug a little deeper and found some new things.  Taking advantage of the free/donation bus service, we found some new hiking spots, a couple of new-to-us restaurants and a fish/seafood market that had just opened at our last visit, now doing quite well (see carry out stone crabs pictured below… quite yummy).  Our stay also overlapped with the Vero Beach Art Club’s Under the Oaks Fine Arts and Crafts show which was nicely done; we were tempted by a couple of pieces, but alas, we have little remaining room for art.  All in all, it was a fine stay.

Vero Beach is definitely one of our favorite stops along Florida’s east coast.  As usual, our month long stay stretched a bit longer… no surprise.  For now though, we’ll head back north.

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During the late 19th century, many wealthy industrialists and bankers, many of whom made small fortunes during the second industrial revolution, built lavish homes on this northern coast of Long Island, their own private escapes from NYC.  Hence the nickname, the Gold Coast.  I’ve read that over 500 mansions were built during the early 20th century, though less than half of those survive.  Many fell into ruin during the years of the Great Depression.  A few are now open to the public.  So, when in Rome…

On our way to Oyster Bay, we of course passed a couple more lighthouses, though both at some distance.  Eaton’s Neck Light is now an active Coast Guard station and closed to the public.  It’s claim-to-fame is it’s 3rd order Fresnel lens, the only Fresnel lens in active use today on Long Island.  The nearby Cold Springs Harbor Light‘s distinction is being the only Long Island light to have been moved from its original location.  Apparently in about 1965, the tower was removed from its caisson base and replaced with a skeleton tower.  A local woman purchased the old wooden tower for a dollar and made arrangements to have it towed by barge to her shoreside property… except that enroute it got stuck on a sandbar, for more than a year, waiting for a high enough tide to float it off.  Today it stands very near the water, not much of an aid to navigation, but with an interesting story.

Meanwhile, back to the mansions… We anchored for a night in Oyster Bay, then ended up moving to a mooring ball for a couple of more nights in order to have shore access… Oyster Bay is not quite as accommodating as some other places; no free dinghy docks here.  This place in particular, the Oyster Bay Marine Center, was also pretty disorganized, in that they couldn’t manage to keep track our payments for said mooring ball.  In fact shortly before our departure, one of the staff came rushing back out to our boat again, claiming to have “no record of your payment”; again, we produced receipts, though it was quite off-putting to be wrongly treated as if we were trying get away with something.

OK, really, back to the mansions.  Again, we shuttled our bikes ashore for a pedal out to Planting Fields Arboretum State Historic Park.  Planting Fields is a former Gold Coast estate, which boasts 400+ acres of arboretum, greenhouses, formal gardens and less formal wooded paths, along with Coe Hall, a Tudor Revival mansion. William Robertson Coe was an English immigrant who made his fortune in the insurance business.  It didn’t hurt either that one of his three wives was a Standard Oil heiress.  In any event, upon his death, he donated his estate to the State of New York for use as a horticultural school.  The mansion was quite impressive. No interior photography was allowed, but those with interest can find many of them on this page of the park’s website. The temporary Great Ocean Liners exhibit was also intriguing; Coe was big into marine insurance, including some connection with the Titanic.

The following day we pedaled out Cove Neck to check out the Sagamore Hill National Historic Site.  This was Teddy Roosevelt’s home.  He apparently hated being called Teddy by the way.  Although not as opulent as other Gold Coast mansions, it was impressive in its own right.  What was truly amazing was how much of the home and its contents have been preserved.  TR died at Sagamore in 1919, but his last wife continued to reside there until her death in 1948.  Family members apparently  removed for safekeeping much of the home’s contents at that time, but the structure itself remained unoccupied.  It was turned over to a non-profit, then to the Park Service, and only last year reopened following a $10 million renovation.  For more on its story, check out this NYT article about its reopening.

The Old Orchard House, also on property, was built by one of Teddy’s sons when it became apparent that Mom wasn’t giving up the big house.  Today it houses a nicely done museum of Teddy Roosevelt’s life.  We also enjoyed a hike about the grounds, including a trail out to Oyster Bay.  Again, interior photography was prohibited, but the park’s website and NYT link above both have some great photos.

 

Back in town, Oyster Bay Brewing Company was a fun find.  The Taby’s Burger House… good fries, otherwise not noteworthy. Photos credit to Mike.

 

Next stop: Port Washington.

 

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aka The Hamptons, or most of the Hamptons anyway.  Forks, counties, towns, villages, hamlets… it’s all very confusing up here.  I like the image though of Long Island as a fish swimming towards the west, with a forked tail.

We decided to tuck into Three Mile Harbor (spacious, no anchoring restrictions and reasonable shore access) to rest, visit with a cruising friend who’s living/working here for the season, and to plan for our next stretch.  As it turns out, this spot kept us busy exploring as well.

One day we ferried the bikes ashore with a plan to pedal out to Cedar Point County Park.  It wasn’t a bad ride… nice scenery, decent roads, not a lot of traffic, but we found ourselves wishing for our old road bikes at one point, or at least something with a few gears.  Nevertheless, we made it.  We pedaled through the park until the road ended, then walked along the beach out to Cedar Point Light.  The first Cedar Point Light built in the 1830’s and the current structure dating from a few decades later were both built on what was then Cedar Island, but the 1938 hurricane apparently rearranged the shoreline and today a narrow spit of sand connects the lighthouse to what was the mainland. A few families enjoyed the beach, but we were alone in our venturing out to the light.

Unlike many of the lighthouses we’ve seen in recent months, the Cedar Point Light is still very much in need of some TLC.  The Cedar Island Restoration Project is apparently well underway, but you wouldn’t know it to look at the structure… except for the big banner hung from one side advertising the project.  A few years ago, the beacon was removed from the top and moved by barge to a boatyard in Sag Harbor where it’s reportedly been restored and will wait for further building restoration to be completed.  I’ve read that a roof replacement is in the works for next year.  The interior was badly burned in a fire in the mid 1970’s.  There’s a lot of work to be done.  Word is it’ll serve as a bed & breakfast when it’s finally complete.  Maybe one day I’ll be able to post “after” photos.

Much of the beach along this spit of land is closed seasonally for nesting birds.  On our walk back, I spent a bit of time taking photos of rocks at the shore line instead of the shorebirds who are fast little buggers.  I did managed a few with the bird in the frame.

As long as we had bikes ashore, we decided to pedal down to LongHouse Reserve.  LongHouse is a 16-acre reserve and sculpture garden, a project of famed textile designer/art collector/author Jack Lenor Larsen. He also built a Japanese-inspired home on the grounds that alas is not open to the public, but sounds like quite a place.  I would have loved a sneak peak.  Larsen is nearly 90 at this point, and still spends a lot of time on the grounds here. He generously  opens the grounds to the public though, for a small fee,  at least for a few hours a day, only a few days a week.  Our timing was fortunate.

The Gateway Bell sets the tone for a peaceful walk through the garden.  Here’s a sampling of what I found most intriguing.

I couldn’t help but notice several pieces that used materials familiar to those of us who live on boats… Sunbrella fabric and stainless steel rigging bits to name a few…

This piece offered some interesting photo ops…

Mike was drawn to the vast array of art upon which one could rest…

 

LS_20160813_184048 dinghy parking, Three Mile Harbor

dinghy parking, Three Mile Harbor

Damarks Deli was today’s food highlight.  We had a bite of breakfast here in the morning, and stopped again to pick up some carry-out things for a light dinner back aboard.  We were lucky to make it back aboard however.  We arrived back at the dinghy dock to find it chained and padlocked, the dinghy equivalent of having one’s tire booted.  Turns out we’d inadvertently tied up to a marina dock instead of the in-retrospect-very-obvious public dinghy dock… not that there are signs or anything.  Thankfully we arrived while there were still marina/boatyard staff around;  $10 later (Mike talked them down from $30), we were free and on our way.  (Photo from a later day, tied to the correct dock, the illegal/$10 dock in the background).

The next day we were up and out early to meet Tina, who we’d first met in the Bahamas a couple of years ago.  She’s now RVing, and is working up here for the summer.  We had a lovely wander through the Elizabeth Morton National Wildlife Refuge (alas, no camera), though it was pretty quiet this morning anyway.  We did see dozens of signs though, not forbidding feeding the birds (they’ve apparently given up on that), but rather discouraging folks from leaving piles of seed behind as it attracts rats.  Even the signs/pictures of rats eating shorebird eggs were ineffective though, as we saw at least one pile of seeds someone had left behind on a railing, though a squirrel was making quick work of it.

Lunch at LTBurger in Sag Harbor was most delicious (Smoke Gouda Waffle Fries, jus sayin’), was followed by stops at a farm market and a grocery.  Bless her heart, a provisioning run was the first thing Tina offered when we arrived… she still gets it.  The following morning she introduced us to the Saturday  Sag Harbor Farmers Market; we could have gotten into some serious food geeking trouble here were we not planning to be out for the day with no access to refrigeration.  As it was, we did some power sampling and held purchases to a breakfast pastry and a bottle of hot sauce.  After a visit to the Sag Harbor Whaling Museum, we said our good-byes.  Mike and I did a bit more exploring around Sag Harbor,  an old whaling village with a number of historic homes.  We also visited an honest-to-goodness 5-&-dime, and a good old fashioned hardware store… gotta love tourist towns that have something besides t-shirt shops.

We’d planned to take the bus back to save Tina yet another drive, particularly on a Saturday and especially since she’s working evenings.   What a bust!  We found a bus system that pales in comparison to the one we experienced on Martha’s Vineyard a few weeks back.  The bus stops aren’t marked, and they run no where close to on schedule.  We managed to catch one from Sag Harbor to East Hampton.  We planned to walk around there a bit,  but found it mostly a place full of high end clothing shops we weren’t remotely interested in.  We did find a place to eat that wasn’t stupid expensive (Rowdy Hall) and had a bite to eat… good food and a few decent beers on tap.  Later, we decided to walk the 3 miles back to Three Mile Harbor. Amazingly, there was a sidewalk the whole way.

A couple of days of rest and hiding out from the heat, and we’re ready to explore some more.  Stay tuned.

 

 

 

 

 

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The Captain’s summary:

We spent a couple of days on a mooring in Woods Hole Great Harbor, walked around, took a science walking tour that included the Marine Biology Lab, went to the NOAA aquarium, saw three films, breakfast at Pie in the Sky twice, dinner at Captain Kidd (only OK but still open after the movies) and Quick Point Tavern (good – try pig candy).  Biked to Falmouth, had lobster rolls from the Cracked Claw cart, saw a huge display of modern Japanese prints at Highfield Hall, walked around town, biked past Nobska Lighthouse on the way back.
Wednesday late morning we motored around to a mooring in Quissett Harbor, walked up to the Knob overlook, hung out on the boat.

And now, for the rest of the story…

After almost exactly three weeks on the Vineyard, we headed north across Vineyard Sound to do some exploring in the Elizabeth Islands, starting in Woods Hole at the southwest tip of Cape Cod.  We opted to spring for a mooring ball at the Woods Hole Yacht Club, which wasn’t exactly yachty, but did have an active kids sailing camp going on during our visit.  Woods Hole is known as a world center for marine, biomedical, and environmental science… translate: there are lots of scary-smart people here doing some really fascinating work.  The Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution aka WHOI, and the Marine Biological Laboratory aka MBL are both based here.

On the afternoon of our arrival, we took a walk around to get oriented.  The WHOI Ocean Science Exhibit Center was definitely worth a wander through.  We’d hoped to book a guided tour of the WHOI complex, but alas, they were full, which might have had something to do with our visit coinciding with the Woods Hole Film Festival, though we didn’t notice a lot of crowds during our visit.

The fact that our visit coincided with the Woods Hole Film Festival wasn’t accidental.  I’d seen a bit about an indie film featuring a female light keeper at one of the lighthouses we’d visited earlier in our trip, so it had been on my radar.  A week or so out, when I was certain we’d be in WH, I booked tickets online for  To Keep the Light.   A Huffington Post piece including an interview with Erica Fae, creator of the film, is worth a read.  The film is  historical, the main character a compilation of several real-life women keepers.  We’d planned to see just the one film, but opted for another, One Big Home,  after meeting Thomas Bena, the creator/director/editor on the street and learning that it had been filmed on Martha’s Vineyard.  This  Martha’s Vineyard Times piece interviewing Thomas is also worth a read.  The film itself is an thoughtful reflection on development/land use and the like.  There was also a third “short” film, but it wasn’t memorable; in fact, the name now escapes me.  Neither was dinner at Captain Kidd memorable, but it got points for being open late after the film festival ended for the evening.

Although I would loved to have spent the week checking out a bit more of the film festival, it just wasn’t in our budget for either time or cash (mooring balls and movie tickets add up fast).  Instead, the following morning we ferried the bikes ashore and headed to breakfast at Pie in the Sky Bakery and Cafe which was most yummy, followed by a guided walking Science Tour from Woods Hole Historical Museum.  Our guide was young, one of the scary-smart folks I mentioned earlier, and so very passionate, which made for a great walk. Even better, Mike and I were the only ones signed up, so very personal, lots of interaction.  The tour included a walk about town,  plenty of history on the area, info about WHOI and MBL, complete with a tour of the latter.  There is some really fascinating research going on there.

As we were headed back to the Historical Museum to collect our bikes, we had a real stroke of perfect timing (completely accidental).   We were walking by the WHOI docks just as their research vessel  R/V Atlantis was arriving. Owned by the US Navy and operated by WHOI, this is one seriously decked out boat.  It’s the mothership if you will for Alvin, a human occupied vehicle (HOV) that does deep ocean exploration all over the world.  In 1986, it was involved in the exploration of the sunken Titanic;  more recently its been exploring underwater volcanoes and hydrothermal vents in the Pacific Ocean.  These vessels are almost never in port in Woods Hole, so it was a great treat to see the arrival.  As it was, it was in port for less than 24 hrs, gone the next morning.

LS_20160802_113844 Atlantis

R/V Atlantis

LS_20160802_114542

Alvin, aboard Atlantis

LS_20160802_114956

Atlantis at the WHOI dock

LS_20160802_114932 Green Heron

Green Heron looking on

 

That afternoon, we opted to bike via the rail trail,  Shining Sea Bikeway,  from Woods Hole to North Falmouth  where we grabbed lunch (lobster rolls) at a little roadside place that had made Mike’s radar.  They were most delicious.  From there, we headed on to Highfield Hall and Gardens.

Highfield Hall and Gardens would be impressive enough in their own right.  It’s an historic 1878 mansion that had a near miss with a wrecking ball.  A recent Boston Globe article has a bit more of that story.  The real highlight for us, and the reason for our visit, was the Kanreki: A 60 Year Journey exhibit, an annual exhibition of contemporary Japanese prints that only very occasionally makes its way to the US.  For this years’ exhibit,  Highfield Hall would be the only US venue. Our timing was perfect.  Not the same as seeing it in person of course, but the link gives a good overview of the variety of the exhibit.

We of course spent a bit of time wandering about the grounds, including the recently renovated Sunken Gardens. I found some of the sculptures captivating.

After a walk around the town of Falmouth, we biked back to Woods Hole with a detour to  Nobska Light.  The town of Falmouth only a few months ago took on responsibility for this light and keepers quarters, which will be handled by the nonprofit Friends of Nobska Light. They apparently have big plans for renovation/restorations.  Not yet open to the public, it was still worthy of a stop, and the afternoon light made for some good photos.

We opted for dinner back in WH at Quicks Hole Tavern which was quite good. Mike particularly enjoyed the pig candy.

As with many places up here, we had to time our departure carefully to take advantage of favorable tides/currents and not fight with nasty ones.  That meant an early afternoon departure from Woods Hole.  With another morning to explore, we made a return visit to Pie in the Sky (good breakfast, good coffee and free wifi are hard to beat) and took a long walk off  the beaten path while waiting for the opening (11am-4pm) of the Woods Hole Science Aquarium.  It was well worth the wait.  In addition to some interesting fish, there are also a couple of adorable resident Harbor Seals, Lu Seal and Bumper.  Alas, the enclosure didn’t lend itself well to good photos, but you can see them and read their story here.

Back aboard Cheshire, we had a short mid-day motor through Woods Hole Strait and around the point, where we picked up mooring at Quissett Harbor. After an afternoon of rest, we took a short hike out to the Knob.   It’s another bit of nature preserve saved from development;  find a bit more in this Boston Globe piece.  It was a lovely way to wind down from a few busy days.

 

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