Archive for the ‘Far Bahamas’ Category

Our last stop on Eleuthera would be Spanish Wells. Leaving Hatchet Bay, we managed a couple of hours of sailing before the wind faded to almost nothing. We also needed to make Current Cut at slack tide, so motor we did. We managed the cut without difficulty and a short time later had picked up a mooring ball just off the settlement of Spanish Wells. After the remoteness of Hatchet Bay, Spanish Wells felt downright metropolitan.

At 2 miles long and 1/2 mile wide, it’s a smallish island (St George’s Cay technically, but never referred to as such), first settled by the Eleutheran Adventurers who came from Bermuda and were shipwrecked on a nearby reef called Devil’s Backbone in the mid 1600’s. Another wave of folks came later, Crown loyalists who fled the United States during and following the Revolutionary War. Given this history, it has a very different vibe than many of the islands we’ve seen to date. Spanish Wells is primarily a fishing village, lobster fishing specifically, and an active one at that, despite the fact that lobster season was closed at the time of our visit.

We had an enjoyable few days wandering about town, and checking out a few of the local restaurants. A stand-out was S & H Take-a-way which we’d heard about from a fellow cruiser. Steve, the chef, apparently is the cook on one of the local lobster boats, but when he’s ashore on a Saturday, one can sample his handiwork ashore. The deal is there is a sign posted outside the local market a day or so in advance that informs of the menu, and has a phone number… that’s it, not the name of the place, the address, nada. You just have to know. Mike called to make reservations, and called again later to clarify which “pink house across from the mooring field”  (no sign) we were to be looking for. A lot of their business is carry-out, but they’ve got some seating on the front porch; we opted for the later, and were glad to have gotten a tip from the bartender at Budda’s on the BYOB deal as well. It turned out to be one of the best meals we’ve had in a while.  (Budda’s was an interesting place as well, kitchen in the bus, bar in the back, tables scattered about and a liquor store on site, photo below.)

It also turned out to be a great birding spot as the mooring field (all 6 mooring balls of it) are sandwiched between the settlement of Spanish Wells on one side and uninhabited Charles Island  on the other.  Low tide usually found me in the cockpit with my binoculars and camera.  I’m confident about the Oystercatcher id, but the others are new to me, captioned with my best guesses.  Confirmations and/or corrections welcome.

Having taken care of some chores, including a bit of provisioning, a propane tank refill, and getting our Cheshire a desperately needed bottom-cleaning, tomorrow we’ll top off fuel and water and continue making our way north. As our time here is running short, it’ll be a quick recon trip through the Abacos instead of a more leisurely explore as is our preference. It’s all good though. We’re already making notes for the next visit.

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Note to self: It’s best to figure out the flash and low light capabilities of one’s relatively new camera before exploring very dark caves. Oh yeah, and don’t forget to take the lens hood off. Hindsight is a wonderful thing. That said, a few of the following photos are mine; Tammy aboard s/v Dos Libras gets credit for the others. Thanks, Tammy, for the share.

We’d heard about the Hatchet Bay Caves from some other cruisers. Tammy and Bruce were also up for the adventure, so exploring we went. We were prepared for a bit of a hike, north from Hatchet Bay most of the way to Gregory Town. We weren’t even hitchhiking, but when a local pulled over to offer us a ride, far be it from us to refuse. A short ride and a short walk from the main road later, we were at the mouth of the caves.

I’ve had two previous memorable experiences with bats. The first was on a small boat in the middle of a big lake at night when we had bats dive bombing us after mosquitos; I about went overboard to escape. The other was when a bat got into a crummy apartment I lived in shortly after graduate school; after an hour or so of encouraging its escape without success, my roommate at the time managed to whack it with a tennis racket after which I had to dispose of it. I get that they’re useful creatures, just not a favorite of mine. I’m certain that these caves had bats… lots of guana evident, but thankfully they were tucked away during our visit, no doubt irritated by the tourists who most certainly were disturbing their slumber.

Tammy had done her research, so we knew that descending the first ladder to the second level was doable. The next ladder to the third level, into standing water I might add, was best left to the pros. We passed on that one.

Eventually, with Mike leading the way, we saw (literally) the light at the end of the tunnel. It took a bit of crawling, but we ended up in the bottom of what looked like an old well with a rope ladder climbing to the top. So climb we did.

A short walk along a grassy trail, and we were back at the entrance to the caves. A bit further down the road we opted for lunch at Sugar Apple… yummy fish tacos and local beers. We even got lucky and got a ride back to Hatchet Bay, but not before I spotted and photographed another Smoot-billed Ani.

LS_20150503_115707 Smooth-billed Ani

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Working our way up the west coast of Eleuthera, we headed out of Governor’s Harbour bound for Hatchet Bay, the plan being to spend a couple of days there and then move on to Spanish Wells. Despite the forecast calling for light winds, we had hoped to be able to sail. In fact there was virtually no wind. In the end, we did a bit of motor-sailing (propelled primarily by engine with a bit of boost from the sails).

We weren’t the only ones to give it a try though. The schooner Liberty Clipper, which we’d first seen in Governor’s Harbour, was nearby and we watched for a long bit as she unfurled all four of her sails. It was a beautiful sight, but we’re pretty sure she motor-sailed as well. More on this impressive vessel here.

Mid-afternoon, we began our approach to Hatchet Bay Pond. We’d read that the narrow cut into the bay is difficult to see until you’re practically upon it. No lie. The following photos document our approach. We actually had plenty of room coming through, but we still appreciated the calm water in such a situation. In the days that followed, in clocking winds, it would get more exciting.

approaching the cut

approaching the cut

looks skinny

looks skinny

jetty inside

jetty inside

heading in

heading in

Once inside, we motored around a bit, scouting depths, potential spots to drop the anchor, dinghy access, etc. … and who did we find but s/v Jabiru V, our Aussie friends Peter and Gail whom we first met in Oriental, NC several years ago. It quickly became apparent that our stay here would be more than a couple of days. We’ve had great fun catching up with them, as well as meeting/getting to know Geoff and Jenny aboard m/v  Woosah, another Aussie couple who are hanging out in the bay too. Peter, being the musician that he is, of course knows the local hot spots for live music, so we’ve been following him about to hear him play. One night we hitched north to a place called the Sugar Apple, and a few days later, caught a ride with one of his musician friends to the Rainbow Inn (which by the way had the best pizza we’ve had in months, a Monday night deal). In between, we’ve done some exploring and took a hike over to the Atlantic side beach for an explore and a swim. Very pretty and much less trashed… even found some sea glass.

LS_20150427_183833Then, after weeks and weeks and weeks of near perfect weather, we hear of a cold front approaching. As Hatchet Bay is well protected, we decide to stick around for a bit longer. In the next few days, we got a fair amount of company, lots of others seeking protection, and watched a bit of musical chairs as boats moved about the harbor, anchoring, dragging anchor, deciding maybe they’ll move to a mooring ball, debating the “free” balls (gov’t owned, but no one collects or does maintenance?) or $20/night for those leased by a local. From our skinny water spot anchored mid-bay, it was an amusing game of checkers, trying to keep track of who was where. Not long before the winds began, we watched one monohull sailboat tow another in through the cut… a bit scary even to watch given the wave action, but thankfully, they were successful. The next morning, after a particularly rainy blowy night, we heard the Liberty Clipper on the radio, announcing that she’d be entering the cut… and sure enough, shortly after first light, here she came. I’m thinking that must have been pretty exciting to watch from their bow. We heard later that she’d been anchored overnight a bit further north and had done some dragging herself. She spent the next couple of days on the government dock waiting out the weather. I felt bad for the paying customers aboard who were likely not having the Bahamas weather they’d signed up for.

The original plan had been to spend my birthday in Spanish Wells, but the Captain and I agreed that the weather trumped that plan; on the heels of the first front, another bit of nasty weather is in the forecast. So after a grocery/water run early in the day, I spent most of my birthday aboard, opening hatches, closing them, opening again as it rained on and off all day. By late afternoon, the skies had cleared a bit, but with no sign of life at the nearby restaurant we’d planned to check out, we instead had an impromptu gathering in the cockpit, complete with a fabulous pitcher of pina coladas.. thanks Geoff & Jenny!

LS_20150502_104214 Miracle WashHouse, Hatchet BaySaturday dawned clear and dry, a bit of calm before the next storm, so Mike, Gail and I took a short hike a bit north to what in my personal experience to date is the second best laundromat in the Bahamas. Not counting of course the homes of generous friends we’ve met along the way (Tom & Gigi on Long Island, Amy in Governor’s Harbour), and second only to the laundromat at Blackpoint settlement in the Exumas which takes first spot for the bonuses of a dinghy dock, an awesome view and free wifi. Yes, I get excited about laundry, more so after a string of rainy damp days. It’s one of the things I didn’t think much about when we lived on dirt. Laundry, water, propane, electricity, weather… a few of the things that are larger on my radar in this nomad lifestyle.

Saturday night my birthday celebration continued with dinner at the Front Porch with the crews of Jabiru V (Peter and Gail) and Woosah (Geoff and Jenny).  Thanks Geoff and Jenny for sharing the photos.

So, being the “risk averse” (Chris Parker’s term) cruisers that we are, and given the “marginal gale” in the forecast this coming week, we’ll be staying put for a bit longer. In fact what was planned to be a “day or two” pause has turned out to be the longest we’ve stayed in one place anywhere since arriving in the Bahamas. It’s all good though, or as the travel brochures tout, #It’s Better in the Bahamas.

Magnificent Frigatebird

Magnificent Frigatebird

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Every once in a while in our travels we run across a particularly curious boat that I’m compelled to dig up the history on.  In this case the boat is really a raft, and not a particularly seaworthy-looking raft at that.  It’s been floating around in Governor’s Harbour since we arrived with no apparent comings or goings.  When I heard that it’s captain had taken it across the Atlantic ocean, my curiosity was piqued.  I was directed to the local library for the rest of the story.

It turns out that AnTiki was the brain child of a most interesting fellow by the name of Anthony Smith, whose Wikipedia bio lists his occupation as “explorer, author, balloonist”;  full Wikipedia article here.  Among other things, he’d been interested in another curious boat, the Jolly Boat, a small lifeboat that in 1940 was launched from the SS Anglo Saxon, a British  merchant ship, after the latter vessel was attacked and sunk by a German boat.  The Jolly Boat carried the surviving crew on a 68-day crossing of the Atlantic, though only two of the crew survived to make landfall on Eleuthera.  Smith is credited with locating the boat in Mystic, CT where it had been for some time, and orchestrating its return to England where its now on display at the Imperial War Museum in London.

But the story doesn’t end there.  Apparently Smith had a desire to trace the path of these ill-fated seaman.. on a raft.

A Telegraph article  tells the story of the building of this transatlantic raft, assembling its crew, and of the crossing from the Canary Islands to St Maarten, an interim stop due to schedule constraints of some of the original crew.  Smith turned 85 during the voyage.  My favorite quote from this initial article:

“People said I was mad to do it at my age. But age is irrelevant. They said if I wanted adventure I should take a bus to Istanbul. But I can’t walk and I don’t have to walk on a raft and I have handles to hold when I want to move around. That’s easier than getting on and off a bus.”

In a follow-up article/interview, Smith himself tells the story of the Jolly Boat, as well as of the AnTiki’s first voyage, and finally of about one year later, making the final leg of the voyage from St Maarten to Eleuthera, landing very near where Cheshire is anchored as I write.

Actually, if you dig deep enough, there is a multi-week series of articles that the Telegraph published, tracking their adventure as it unfolded.  It’s good reading.  This link will access some photos of the raft and its crew.  I also appreciated that from the outset, one of the goals was to raise funds/awareness for WaterAid.

Alas, Captain Smith died last summer at the age of 88, but what an adventure his life had been.  He’s another character for my list of “If you could invite three people, living or dead, to dinner…”…

An-Tiki, moored in Governor's Harbour

An-Tiki, moored in Governor’s Harbour

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crews of Cheshire, Krazy Lady, Rainbow and Outrageous

crews of Cheshire, Krazy Lady, Rainbow and Outrageous

We arrived in Governor’s Harbour on a Friday afternoon and found that we recognized most of the boats in the harbor as folks we’ve been leap-frogging up the islands with. The town’s Friday night Fish Fry/street party was a great place to catch up bit. Photo by Tina of s/v Rainbow; thanks for the share, Tina.

Governor’s Harbour held a small Earth Day Festival the following day complete with food/beverage/local vendors and a few booths for local organizations. They even had a recycling bin… the first I’ve seen since we’ve been in the islands, which of course was gone the day after the festival. Weird. We opted to skip the evening festivities/concert as we were beat, but we were still within earshot. I believe it was the first time we’ve heard marching band music from the cockpit.

Sunday morning we were up early, dinghy in the water, ready to make the long trek across the island to check out the Leon Levy Plant Preserve I’d read about, when I finally connected with Amy, a woman I’d “met” on a Facebook group called Women Who Sail (WWS). She has a boat stateside, but winters here on the island. We readily accepted her offer of a ride over (her condo is near the Preserve) as well as her suggestion that we bring our laundry. We had a bite of breakfast together, then Mike and I were off to the Preserve, after which we had lunch at Amy’s and chatted about boats. Mid-afternoon we were back aboard Cheshire after a great day, with clean laundry, continuing to marvel at the generosity of strangers.

The Leon Levy Native Plant Preserve is quite a place, a 25-acre bit of land only recently designated as a preserve, the first national park on the island of Eleuthera. As their name implies, they focus heavily on native plants, as well as what’s known as “bush medicine”, and have a bit educational focus as well. We got a great overview of the place from botanist Ethan, who it turns out is a graduate of Miami University, my alma mater, who told us, among other things, that there’s a long standing relationship between the University and the Bahamian Islands with regard to the environmental sciences. Who knew. In any event, we spent several hours exploring. The birds were present, but elusive. I must have been a bit hungry near the end, as I ended up with lots of photos in the “edibles” section.

Monday morning we ferried a propane tank ashore, strapped it to the handcart and walked it over to Eleuthera Supply (a market and a hardware store) for a propane refill… which turned out to be a leave it with us and we’ll have it back by end of day tomorrow deal, which really turned out to mean we could pick it up this morning (Wednesday). Ah, island time.  In the meantime we’ve spent some time wandering about the settlement.  Governor’s Harbour was the first capital of the Bahamas and has a bit of a colonial feel to some of the architecture.  Nearby Cupid’s Cay isn’t much to look at today, but was the original settlement of the group known as the Eleutheran Adventurers, who came from Bermuda seeking religious freedom in the mid 1600’s.  The short causeway over to Cupid’s Cay proved to be an interesting birding spot, though I’m still a bit uncertain as to these guys.  Ruddy Turnstones, maybe?

LS_20150418_150900 Ruddy Turnstone? LS_20150418_151230 Ruddy Turnstone pair?

LS_20150420_130728We took a break from the omnipresent conch/fish/chicken we’ve been having and had burgers and beer at the Buccaneer Club for lunch one day. We also took a break from the omnipresent local beers, Kalik and Sands, and sprung for IPAs from a newish craft brewery in Nassau, Pirate Republic Brewing Company which were quite good. Breakfast at Da Perk felt a bit like breakfast at the Bean in Oriental though pricier. Note to self: both Buccaneer Club and Da Perk have free wifi for customers. The interesting Haynes Library, which claims to be the largest library outside of Nassau, also appears to be popular with the locals, though charges $5/hr for wifi.

We’d planned to be hauling anchor mid-morning, but after going ashore for breakfast, picking up the propane tank and getting stranded in the first good heavy rain we’ve had in weeks, we decided to wait another day. Besides, our cruising boat neighbors are fishing and keep giving us free fish. Snapper last night and mahi the night before that. One of these days maybe we’ll learn how to fish ourselves, but in the meantime it’s nice to have friendly neighbors.

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CC_11152693_10153873038849782_2182506412658391378_nWe had a nice light wind sail (main and screecher) from Bennett’s Harbour up around the southern end of Eleuthera (in fact the longest island in the Bahamas) before motoring into Rock Sound Harbour.  We’d sailed out with s/v Rainbow, though they stopped at Little San Salvador, where Tina managed to snap a photo of Cheshire under sail as we went by.  First under sail photo not taken from aboard our boat.  Thanks for the share, Tina.

We arrived on Sunday afternoon to what sounded like a party onshore, which we found out later was actually a funeral for the 85 year old pastor of the local Pentecostal Church. We’ve also found our feathered friends to be quite vocal here as well. Along with the ubiquitous mockingbirds ashore , there are dozens of Laughing Gulls and a few scattered terns on the shoreline, and plentiful roosters about the settlement. No goats though.

We spent a couple of days exploring the immediate area, where there is a bit more going on than on Long and Cat Islands. We found a shopping center on the edge of town that has a nice market. Nearby Rock Sound Hardware appeared to be trapped in a 1960’s time warp where you could purchase, among other things, pre-rusted tools. We also learned that they’re the only show in town for refilling propane tanks, except that they quoted us $45 for refilling a 20# tank. Ouch! We’ve found many things more expensive in the Islands, but that’s 50% more than other fills we’ve gotten here. We opted to pass (we’ve got a 2nd 20# tank), hoping for a more reasonable option further north on Eleuthera. There are also several liquor stores and other misc shops in the village, including a hair and nail salon which we’ve not seen since Nassau. Like I said, a bit more going on. We lunched at Sammy’s Place where we reconnected with some other cruisers we’ve run into the last several weeks (s/v Outrageous, Krazy Lady and DevOcean) and had fun catching up/comparing notes.

The following day we did a bit more exploring, this time with camera, checking out some of the back roads, neighborhoods, etc. We walked around Ocean Hole park where I was finally able to get a photo of the elusive White-crowned Pigeon. I’m not sure whether it’s just a bit later in the season or whether the climate is just better suited a wee bit north, but there are more flowering bushes and trees than we’ve seen in recent weeks. I’ve been captivated by the colorful flowers in contrast with some of the ruins and rough-around-the-edges bits of this place.

Of course there are always a few chores to tend to. Unsuccessful the previous day in locating a fresh water supply, but assured via TC with the Department of Water and Sewage that there were fresh water spigots “scattered about the settlement” that we were free to use, we once again scouted a water source. A local finally came to our rescue, showing us a nearby tap… which in fact we’d both seen but didn’t recognize as a water tap. We’ve since seen them literally everywhere. Meant to get a photo, but didn’t. At afternoon’s high tide, when we could most easily clear some rocks to beach the dinghy near the tap, we shuttled four jerry cans/24 gallons of water back to Cheshire, which should hold us for a bit.

The following day we decided to take yet another hike over to the Atlantic side of the island. We were ashore early to beat the worst of the heat and walked for about 45 minutes before reaching the western shore, during which exactly 2 cars passed us on the road eastbound, both stopping to offer us a ride. We were enjoying the relative cool of the morning, so declined, but decided we’d gladly accept any offers for a return ride later in the afternoon. Along the way we spotted an unusual black bird we’d seen on a previous hike, but this time I was able to take a quick photo; we later IDed it as a Smooth-billed Ani. Fun to spot a new-to-us bird.

After a bit of scouting, we found a trail over a high sand dune and spent several hours exploring a really pretty beach. As with others we’ve wandered in recent weeks, there was a fair amount of plastic flotsam, but some other unusual finds as well, including a TV, a couple of intact hard hats and what looked for all the world like a space ship that turned out to be a weather beacon… no longer measuring wave heights though. I was captivated by some random pieces of driftwood. We shared the morning and beach with a pair of American Oystercatchers and a few plovers as well. Mid-day, on a tip from fellow cruisers, we stopped in for lunch at a place called Nort’side Restaurant, aka Rosie’s. What a view, and good food to boot. We were the first to arrive, and realized that Rosie in fact was one of the couple of cars that had stopped to offer us a ride earlier that morning. We enjoyed our red snapper and jerk chicken lunches while chatting with a British couple and a group of four divers who arrived shortly after us. When Rosie was done preparing their lunches, she insisted on giving us a ride back across the island, which we gladly accepted. Bahamian hospitality continues to be impressive. In fact all over the settlement, folks give a polite honk and wave as if they know us; it’s a bit like being back in Oriental, NC actually.

As the sun set later that evening, we were glad to have cruising friends Curt and Cindy of m/v Classic Cyn who’d arrived earlier in the day, aboard for a bit for drinks, snacks and some catching up.

Our last day in Rock Sound, was another “get things done” day. We made a return visit to Sammy’s Place for a yummy Bahamian breakfast and some wifi time (app updates and phone back-ups, etc), then headed to the Market for a bit of provisioning. Back aboard Cheshire, it was time for a bit of cleaning up/routine maintenance, and for Mike, a small sewing project.
After 4 days/5 nights in Rock Sound, it’s time to move on north. Next stop: Governor’s Harbour.

sunset, Rock Sound Harbou

sunset, Rock Sound Harbour

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dinghy on the beach, Arthurs Town

dinghy on the beach, Arthurs Town

Having seen the high point of Cat Island, pun intended, we decided to do a bit of exploring of some further flung places. On Wednesday we had a lovely sail up the west coast of the island to Arthur’s Town. To say that it’s the largest settlement on Cat Island isn’t saying much, but it was certainly one of the most hospitable settlements we’ve visited. It is in fact the boyhood home of Sidney Poitier.  On the afternoon we arrived, we decided to take a bit of a walkabout. Our first stop was at a little open air bar named “Cocktails by the Sea”, run by an older woman referred to by the locals as Grammy. Grammy was sitting enjoying the view when we arrived, in her pink housecoat and grey stocking cap; we were the only customers in sight in the middle of the afternoon. She directed us to the refrigerator to pick what we liked, and we settled down with a couple of Kaliks to hear her story… widowed, five children, all of whom are gone from Cat Island, mostly to Nassau; she spoke of their graduating high school in the morning and being on the afternoon ferry off the island. We’ve heard from many of the locals on these so called Out Islands or Family Islands of the exodus of young people who move away in search of work. Apparently one of her sons built this place, literally across the street from her home. She must be doing OK based on the wad of cash she pulled out of her housecoat pocket when I went to pay her for our beers. No photo, but I assure you, she was quite the character.

Rake & Scrape at Da Smoke Pot, Arthurs Town, Cat Island

Rake & Scrape at Da Smoke Pot, Arthurs Town, Cat Island

A bit further down the road we found a restaurant we’d heard about called Da Smoke Pot, named for a local tradition of burning pots of green brush after dark to keep the bugs away. Over rum punches, we chatted with another cruising couple and a couple of interesting older locals named Dodger and Franko who it turns out are quite good musicians. With only a bit of prompting, they shared freely of Cat Island’s prominence in the Bahamian musical tradition of Rake and Scrape. They spoke of the annual Rake and Scrape Festival on the island each June (we were told that Dodger’s band took 1st place last year) and encouraged us to return. When I told them that we’d be long gone by then, hurricane season you know, Dodger reminded me with a sly smile that there are in fact planes that fly to Cat Island. We had a some great food (cracked conch and grouper) sharing a table with a young family with a couple of boys. After dinner, Dodger, Franko and the restaurant owner Julian entertained us with some authentic Rake and Scrape… way better than what we’d heard in George Town a few weeks back. They even had an extra saw and screwdriver, yes saw and screwdriver and encouraged us to join them. The younger of the boys (10ish?) and I took them up on the offer. Great fun. Not great photos (i-phone in low light), but you get the idea.

The following day we took another across island hike to the Atlantic side. It was a long trek along a dirt/rock road that had been graded all the way across the island, but with not much indication of why, as there was virtually nothing along the way. It was almost as if they’d planned this big development, but it never got past grading the road and planting a few coconut palms. There’s a bit of that going around the islands, actually. We figure it was about 8-9 miles roundtrip. We did see a few birds, though I’ve not yet identified them (limited wifi), including a good-sized black creature that I’m most curious about.

The Atlantic coast offered some pretty views and yet another trash clean-up opportunity. This time we found a few trash barrels along the roadside, so we’re fairly confident that what we collected will in fact be picked up.

Having seen Arthurs Town, and finding the anchorage a bit rolly for a longer stay, we hauled the anchor the following morning, and on a tip from a booklet we’d gotten from Da Smoke Pot owners, dropped a bit south to check out what locals refer to as Alligator Creek (charted as Pigeon Creek) to look for sea turtles. We tucked in close for a day anchor and spent several hours putzing and drifting about the creek in the dinghy and in fact saw dozens of sea turtles. There was enough of a breeze to be comfortable, but also to disturb the surface of the water which made catching a photo impossible, besides the fact that they’re quite skittish creatures. Back about Cheshire we moved down to anchor off Bennett’s Harbour for the night. We had a failed attempt to visit a local restaurant for a late lunch (closed), but did have a pleasant visit with Mark and Tina of s/v Rainbow who we’d been leap-frogging with for several weeks. We were in fact the only boats in the anchorage that evening.

Moving on north, next stop: Eleuthera.

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